[ssimon]

Hi
I've got old negatives on cut film, so they're not a standard size (eg 35 mm). I've been trying to get a Canoscan 8400 to do this with no success. Can anyone recommend a consumer scanner that will handle this task with a minimum of fuss?
Many thanks
S

[JackMac]

Have you checked out Microtek? I don't know what your budget is but I scan some unusual sized negatives and the Mac interface is pretty good. Even better if you have Photoshop.

[dougster]

-Hi,

I agree with -Jack its easier if you have Photoshop or PSElements. You use Photoshop to import, using TWAIN plugin, from your scanner. But for members to suggest a scanner for negatives you'd have to leave behind which OS you are using. We've had very good results w/ Epson Perfection 2400 -->OSX 10.4.11 -->35mm and odd size negs. More info would help a lot. And your Mac would like you more if you had lots of RAM with high resolution scans. B-)

[DMurray431]

With Microtek you have to be careful........ they are very slow in writing drivers for some of their scanners. Some years ago when the Tiger OS came out my ScanMaker 4900 was rendered useless for nearly a year before the new drivers were put out for it. They have yet to put out a new driver for Leopard so I switched over to an Epson scanner. Both scanners could scan negatives/slides under Tiger........ but the Microtek not yet. I would advise that you check to see if your prospective scanner will work with your proposed scanner.

[ssimon]

Hi
Well, I'm running 10.5.4 on a MacBook Pro w/ 4 GB RAM. So I'm fine on memory but regarding the Microtek, it looks like there aren't up-to-date drivers.

With my current set-up -- Canoscan 8400 -- the software doesn't import BW negatives. I have photoshop Elements, the scaled down app that came bundled with the canoscan, but that just imports images that have actually been captured through some other application. Also, the holders don't work with the size negatives I've got, which are mostly 2.5X3.5 inch cut film of slightly varying sizes. Moreover, there are no instructions I can find on the Canon site for scanning BW negatives.

Anyway if you've got additional advice I'm all ears.

Regards
S

[rab777hp]

Try Hammacher Schlemmer's Slide And Negative To Digital Picture Converter.
Here is the description from the site:

This device converts old 35mm slides and film negatives into digital images, allowing you to easily preserve your memories without having to rely on a conversion service. Slides and negatives are placed into a tray that aligns each properly; the touch of a button scans the image instantly. It has a 5MP CMOS sensor that provides 10 bits per color channel for data conversion and uses fixed focus and automatic exposure control and color balance, resulting in clear digital images without loss of quality. It can scan images up to 1,800 dpi and uses three white LEDs as a back light source. For photo transfers and power, it has a USB cable (requires USB 2.0) that plugs into a PC running Windows? XP (not Vista) and includes software that allow s you to edit, crop, and resize your slides as well as convert your negatives into positives. 6 1/2" H x 3 1/2" W x 3 1/2" D. (1 lb.)

Here is the link:
http://www.hammacher...p?promo=QSearch

It costs $99.95

[roscoe]

you could try cutting some heavy board to size and then cutting windows into it to the size you need as per the canon holders. all the windows do is to concentrate the light source of the scanner and not allow it to scatter in behind the negs.

i always scan in rgb and convert later, if at all. sometimes rgb gives you a closer result to the original and is a lot warmer .

[Albertr]

You are trying to use a flat bed scanner that by the way supposedly scans film. You need a real film scanner. Before you start your search for a film scanner you need to know what kind of format, size of file, DPI you want to get. Then start shopping. Avoid flat bed scanners doing film. it is a waste of time and money.

[moose_n_squirrel]

Albertr said:

You are trying to use a flat bed scanner that by the way supposedly scans film. You need a real film scanner. Before you start your search for a film scanner you need to know what kind of format, size of file, DPI you want to get. Then start shopping. Avoid flat bed scanners doing film. it is a waste of time and money.

I disagree. The blanket advice to avoid flatbeds for film is about 5 years out of date. If you are not needing pro quality, some flatbeds actually do a decent job. Pros should still use real film scanners though. The second reason I do not agree is because the original poster will have to find a film scanner that can feed the odd size film they are trying to scan. That may not be affordable.

It is probably more cost effective to cut the custom holder for a good flatbed.

[gogogofur]

I saw this one, but here's my concern. It's for my dad and he only has a Mac. It appears as though it only works with Pc's.

Do you have one of these & does it work with a Mac?

[rab777hp]

No, I don't have one, however I'm pretty sure that it will work with Macs as well. If not, they have a return policy.

[Phrehdd]

Lots of good information and thoughts were provided in response.

There are several parts to the equation here. I'll just toss more peanuts from the gallery...

It is true that drum and film scanners will yield the best results. The former most likely concerns going to a graphics service and can get rather expensive. The latter requires an investment in a film scanner. Nikon is pretty much now the only game in town for you and it too is expensive.

If you want to go to a flatbed scanner solution, be prepared for creating the appropriate set up.

Scanner - a flatbed scanner intended or at least advertised for film scanning. Makers to consider Microtek, Epson, HP and Canon. All can yield satisfactory (though not great) results.

Film handling - this is the hardest part. Ideally film should be as flat as possible, and dust free. I suggest you look into forums and sites that discuss options for this. I find that the ultimate method is to use the wet film process (special oil solution that temporarily holds the film to a sheet of glass. Here, you have to make sure there are no air bubble which can be a challenge on the neg size you mentioned (6x7 or 9 cm) and so forth. Sometimes btw, you can find individuals who have made frame/masks for specific size film neg material and sell them on the internet. These carriers are by design meant to handle larger and often off size film material - just be careful if you consider this option.

Software - There are two softwares out there that are tantamount to any success you may have in terms or really getting mileage out of your negs : Vuescan and AI Silverfast. These both go way beyond typical software provided by scanner makers. Neither is very "instant" on the learning curve but then again, it really depends on what you want to do and how much info you want out of your negs. I might suggest Vuescan to start. It is a "bang for the buck" software and though not as full fledged and pretty as Silverfast, it will deliver the goods nicely.

Since most people want brand names and such - here you go -> Epson Perfection 500, 700, 750. All yield good results for scanning. Btw, I failed to mention that Vuescan software will work with multiple brands/models of scanners while AI Silverfast is PER a model (meaning you have to buy software per model/maker).

Dry Lab - These negs are fairly large and in turn, so will the files be that are created. Make sure you have hardware to match and software. Obviously a Mac Pro will work faster than say a Mac Mini. Typical software that would work well for black and white would be Photoshop Elements. If you venture into colour, Have to recommend Photoshop. If* all you are going to do is "adjust" and remove spots then Aperture and Lightroom are great choices too.

I do a fair deal of photo restoration and film scans usually are in the 35mm range but the same rules apply. Having dealt with 4x5 material (several failures and lots of successes) just remember to take your time, create a repeatable system and above all NEVER discount the annoyance of dust. Invest in compressed air cans and a good brush designed to help clean film off. (I won't even mention about fingerprints as that is a given). As well, be very careful with film cleaners but consider them a must. Always test your procedures for cleaning on least valued negs that are similar in age/quality of your target negs.

Good luck!

- Phrehdd

[Skybolt]

One comment concerning your questions about B&W negatives (your other technical/scanner/negative questions are much better answered by the ones who have posted previously!:) ). I have read on several forums that when scanned B&W are to be imported, there are issues importing those photos. I recently scanned many years worth of old family photos, and when I came upon a B&W, I did not change my scan settings from "color" to "B&W". They all worked just fine. Maybe the key is to scan them as if they are color?

Good luck with your project!