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Macworld Buying Guides: Digital SLR cameras

#1 User is offline   Macworld 

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Posted 24 November 2008 - 12:33 PM

Post your comments for Macworld Buying Guides: Digital SLR cameras here
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#2 User is offline   pawhite524 

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  Posted 22 November 2011 - 08:15 AM

Thanks for an excellent primer on what to look for when getting into DSLR photography.

It may just be my preference but I'd like to suggest a table of the recommended cameras with the various factors noted. Sensor size cannot be overstated as it allows for larger pixels when pixel count remains the same.
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#3 User is offline   pdbreske 

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  Posted 22 November 2011 - 08:45 AM

Size and weight should be the number one factor in choosing a new camera. For most people, buying a DSLR is a reaction to the erroneous perception that such a camera will make you a better photographer, so they go out and spend a ton of money on a camera that is recommended by the store salesperson. Handling the camera in the store for a few seconds doesn't give them the real impression of carrying a heavy, bulky camera around their neck (because it won't fit in a purse or pocket) all day long, so they quickly grow tired of having it with them, negating any possibility of a better photo.

The best camera to buy is the camera you will have with you when you really need it.
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#4 User is offline   TeaEarleGreyHot 

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  Posted 22 November 2011 - 09:42 AM

I'll just mention that I'm using a D7000 on a microscope and it's fabulous. Big sensor, great sensitivity, good color rendition from the pixel elements, and dual file output (NEF plus JPG). The Nikon Camera Control software is inexpensive and gives great control over the camera. Mac compatible. Be sure to get the external power supply and battery adapter if you do this. With good optics on the microscope, we get great images and live pictures. And far more cheaply than the $9,000+ dedicated microscope camera systems.
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#5 User is offline   pawhite524 

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 01:40 PM

View Postpdbreske, on 22 November 2011 - 08:45 AM, said:

Size and weight should be the number one factor in choosing a new camera. For most people, buying a DSLR is a reaction to the erroneous perception that such a camera will make you a better photographer, so they go out and spend a ton of money on a camera that is recommended by the store salesperson. Handling the camera in the store for a few seconds doesn't give them the real impression of carrying a heavy, bulky camera around their neck (because it won't fit in a purse or pocket) all day long, so they quickly grow tired of having it with them, negating any possibility of a better photo.

The best camera to buy is the camera you will have with you when you really need it.


Excellent point! May I suggest one of the "new-fangled" harnesses that will help distribute weight from around the next. I have had success with the Cotton Carrier which is pricey (approx $130.00 USD) but you'll forget about that because you'll have your hobby back (and your neck/back back, too). Disclosure- I have nothing to gain in any way from this recommendation. Like a previous commenter and his/her use of a Nikon 7000 I am just sharing an excellent product.
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#6 User is offline   lhudd 

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 02:26 PM

View Postpdbreske, on 22 November 2011 - 08:45 AM, said:

Size and weight should be the number one factor in choosing a new camera. For most people, buying a DSLR is a reaction to the erroneous perception that such a camera will make you a better photographer, so they go out and spend a ton of money on a camera that is recommended by the store salesperson. Handling the camera in the store for a few seconds doesn't give them the real impression of carrying a heavy, bulky camera around their neck (because it won't fit in a purse or pocket) all day long, so they quickly grow tired of having it with them, negating any possibility of a better photo.

The best camera to buy is the camera you will have with you when you really need it.



I agree. My first DSLR was (and still is) a Nikon D40. Great camera... it did make me a much better photographer because it enabled me to start thinking about all the variables i could manipulate, but not so many variables that it was impossible to use. Now i have added a D7000 to the mix and boy is that sucker complicated. I can still take good pictures, but it's a lot easier for me to screw things up than with the D40. Fortunately, digital allows you to make an immediate examination so i can re-take if necessary. All that being said, i love my 7000, it's great and extremely capable. But... i often miss the super compact and light D40 when i'm carrying the 7000. Even with the 18-200 lens on it, the D40 is a wonderfully capable and compact camera. Swap in the 35mm fixed AFS lens and it's almost pocketable. That little extra bit of heft on the 7000 makes a big difference, especially because i prefer to carry in my hands, instead of using a neck strap.
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#7 User is offline   macmanmk 

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Posted 22 November 2011 - 03:00 PM

View PostTeaEarleGreyHot, on 22 November 2011 - 09:42 AM, said:

I'll just mention that I'm using a D7000 on a microscope and it's fabulous. Big sensor, great sensitivity, good color rendition from the pixel elements, and dual file output (NEF plus JPG). The Nikon Camera Control software is inexpensive and gives great control over the camera. Mac compatible. Be sure to get the external power supply and battery adapter if you do this. With good optics on the microscope, we get great images and live pictures. And far more cheaply than the $9,000+ dedicated microscope camera systems.


Best camera I have ever owned.
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#8 User is offline   newuser1980 

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  Posted 22 November 2011 - 07:11 PM

most Canon DSLR auto focus is really yankee doodle, most nikonDSLR (except d90 & d7000) auto focus is better

the d40 is a great camera

This post has been edited by newuser1980: 22 November 2011 - 07:11 PM

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#9 User is offline   sensel 

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  Posted 25 November 2011 - 06:29 PM

I would never, ever, ever take advice on buying a camera from a computer magazine.

Also, all reviews of interchangeable lens camera bodies should be based on the mount. So, the best pro full frame Sony, Nikon, Canon, Pentax, etc. should be one list. The best enthusiast APS sensor from Sony, Nikon, etc. should be a list and an intermediate and beginner model from EACH mount.

Well, they can skip Leica, Hassleblad, and any other high end pro brands that start at many thousands of dollars.
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#10 User is offline   peterblaise 

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  Posted 28 November 2011 - 06:54 AM

"... Translucent mirror DSLR: Sony a55, $750; Panasonic Lumix DMC-GH2, $1000 ..."

Neither is neither, doh!

However, both have benefits superior to the other cameras in other categories listed, so why separate them as if they do not directly compete in the photographer's potential arsenal?

Click!
Love and hugs,
Peter Blaise Photography
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#11 User is offline   marcuslalanne 

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  Posted 13 December 2011 - 07:36 AM

As a season vet, this guide is well done. Room for improvement would be to include the different types, size of the sensors. As far as the body styles coverage on options like weather sealing, FPS, metal body frames , and vertical body grip adaptation would be great add-ons to this guide. As far as your suggestion for cameras the Nikon d3100 is $550 at your local mom & pop camera shop, Nikon D5100 $850 along with the Canon t3i same price as the D5100, the T2i would be a hundred dollar less than the T3i.
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#12 User is offline   migiman 

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  Posted 13 December 2011 - 10:48 AM

I have a Pentax K-5 and it does make me a better photographer because the fundamentals are better (auto focus, in camera HDR when you need it, etc). I went to Florida with the K-5 and got some interesting video and in camera HDR shots from Kennedy Space Center while attending the Mars Science Laboratory launch a few weeks ago.
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#13 User is offline   russtms1 

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  Posted 13 December 2011 - 11:44 AM

Comments on the megapixel myth. One of the biggest is reflected above, that more megapixels look better at larger magnification. This is not necessarily true, because the limiting resolution of most DSLRs is not the number of pixels but the "speed" (f/#) of the lens. For example, the Canon EOS5D sensor has pixel spacing of 9.6 microns. If the f/# of the exposure is larger than ~1.4, the spot size of the lens limits the resolution. If, for example, you take an image of a bright scene with this camera and use f/32, your resolution is limited to under 1 MPx.

Another point that comes just from experience. While a lower f/# and higher ISO rating let you take pictures in darker conditions, the one major effect on the amount of visible noise in the image is the size of the input lens. An 8 MPx camera at f/1.4 with a 10 mm input lens will give worse results than a 6 MPx camera at f/2.0 with a 50 mm input lens.
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#14 User is offline   surly 

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Posted 13 December 2011 - 02:02 PM

View Postpdbreske, on 22 November 2011 - 08:45 AM, said:

Size and weight should be the number one factor in choosing a new camera. For most people, buying a DSLR is a reaction to the erroneous perception that such a camera will make you a better photographer, so they go out and spend a ton of money on a camera that is recommended by the store salesperson. Handling the camera in the store for a few seconds doesn't give them the real impression of carrying a heavy, bulky camera around their neck (because it won't fit in a purse or pocket) all day long, so they quickly grow tired of having it with them, negating any possibility of a better photo.

The best camera to buy is the camera you will have with you when you really need it.

While I generally agree with your statement, the fact is that a good quality DSLR with a good lens will always outperform a small point and shoot. The camera I always have with me is my Samsung Skyrocket phone. It takes pretty decent pictures and videos for those times when you want to grab a shot but don't want to haul gear with you. That being said, if I know I'm going somewhere to take pictures, I bring my nikon D7000 with the 18-55 mm DX VR lens. It's really not a ton of gear ( my wife recently took it on a trip and she was very happy with the size/weight/results outcome). The real problem is when people feel the need to bring "big glass"e erywhere (like my f2.8 70-200 VR behemoth).
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